2006 Jeep Grand Cherokee Dust Sheild Diagram

If you live in the salt/rust belt likely your rear brake backing plates on the ends of the rear axle housings are rusted through. And if there's a need to pull the rear axle shafts for replacing the outer wheel bearings/seals you may want to consider installing new Dorman rear backing plates.

I'm not a big fan of Dorman parts but their 924-219 rear brake dust shield/backing plates kit (both left and right sides) which comes with 10-11 steel rivets for attaching seem to work well. The kit is $60 at Amazon, Autozone, and $45 plus probably $10 shipping at Rockauto.

https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-924-219-Brake-Dust-Shield/dp/B008PBJ62E/ref=sr_1_fkmrnull_1?keywords=Dorman+924-219&qid=1553538827&s=automotive&sr=1-1-fkmrnull

First I checked with the parts guy I know real well at the dealer and the Mopar 5011982AA rear brake backing plates were $300+ for a pair with discount. Wowser, and like he said "stupid expensive"!

Believe one of the reasons the Mopar rear backing plates are so expensive is the large cast steel bracket is included with the thinner metal dust shield attached. With the Dorman kit you're using the OE heavy steel brackets over and attaching their thinner metal dust shields to them.

No thanks to Dorman for not including any directions whatsoever on how to remove the old dust shields from the brackets and installing new! That's one of the reasons for this write-up so you don't waste your time on trial-and-error removing the old rivets while installing 5 new ones in each bracket.

With OE brackets with attached dust shields on a table first I tried to drill the old rivets out. Even with good carbide bits and lube this was a mistake since the rivets are super hard along with being solid. After drilling some smaller holes through some of the rivets to use a larger bit I said, "this is just taking tooo long"! Oh, and I had tried cutting the rivet heads off using my dremel with metal cutting wheel and the rivet shafts were steel seized in the brackets.

Finally I got my bench vice and just opened the jaws enough where they were a little larger than the rivet head facing down. Then I heated around the rivets with a propane torch and used a long-nosed 1/8" punch tip and knocked the rivets through with a hammer. Why the torch except to burn yourself in the dark? Finally I just knocked the cold rivets through with some rust cutter on them. Don't overthink this like I did and it did take some wood blocking around the vice to support the backing plate.

The new steel rivets are long and about 1/8" diameter. Make sure you have the face of the dust shield and backing plate bracket the same as they came apart. I used some small clamps to hold the thinner metal to the thicker bracket. And this steel rivets aren't the same as aluminum since they're hard to collapse. I braced the front/bottom handle of my pop-rivet gun against a table and had to push the the rear handle with both hands/palms.

About the worst part of the job is all the parking brake shoes/parts need to be removed for removing the backing plates then reinstalled after new plate/bracket installed. I was going to do a parking brake write-up but with those devil clips on the shoes along with super-tight springs I was struggling and what a terrible design! Needle-nose vice grips help some but still a royal pita!

I won't get into pulling/installing the axle shafts since this thread is too long already. Sorry, and was mainly trying to concentrate on the brake backing plates which are also called the dust shields.

Good luck and below are some photos. I did paint the front/backs of the steel rivets after installing since figured they're going to rust badly.

Source: https://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f310/dorman-924-219-rear-brake-backing-plate-install-write-up-4349385/

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